My motel turned out to be just fine so were my two tall boys and bag of Munchos, dinner of champions.
I hit the road after 8 and had nothing in my legs. The wind was in my face and was surprisingly strong for early morning.
A half mile out of town I started up another dune. It was nowhere near as bad as the two whoppers yesterday. The ride down the backside really woke my ass up.
Just before Onekama I climbed another dune. These dunes, by the way, are forested so there is at least some shade. On the way down hill to Onekama I saw a fully loaded cyclist on his way up. He had a big smile on his face. The ignorance of youth. A second tourist was not far behind but he only had rear panniers. Cheater.
In Onekama I stopped at a cafe. The yogini owner (she dropped the word yoga every minute) made excellent scones and coffee. I had one of each but they didn’t put a dent in my hunger.
A customer and friend of the owner came in and started chatting with me. She asked where I was staying during my trip: “Camping? Golden showers? Motels?”
It was one of those moments when you wish you had a witty retort. Somehow I managed to not react to her malapropism. (She meant “warm showers” an online resource for sheltering bike tourists.)
I rolled out of the yoga java shop with a caffeine buzz but not much belly fuel. I immediately rode past two places serving actual sustenance. Can’t stop now. On to Manistee 14 mikes south.
Lake. Woods. Farm. Hills up. Hills down. Headwinds.
Pedal pedal .
I stopped at Manistee Beach because The Mule wanted to pose in front of Lake Michigan again.
I missed a turn outside Manistee. When I realized my error I back tracked and stopped at The Captain’s Restsurant. These folks served me a proper breakfast. Actually it was the size of two proper breakfasts. (I actually qualified for their senior breakfast deal, but the menu said the portions were smaller. Forget that!)
The last 25 miles to Ludington seemed to take forever even though I was riding considerably faster with some food in my engine.
Then I saw the ferry. And my car. And it was over. 50 1/2 miles today. 833 for the 11-day trip.